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Alabama's Dauphin Island is a magical place—essential resting spot for migrating birds, holy site for many Native-Americans, launching point for the most varied salt-water angling on the continent, and sandy playground for thousands. But as condos and beach houses crowd the island, the sun is setting on three hundred years of tradition. Now, each afternoon brings a cluttered jam of day-sailors and sports fishermen scrambling for harbor and happy hour. The sunset is left for a lone waterman.
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