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The diary of a middle aged surfer aged 38 and a half.
You will not learn any radical manoeuvres or how to ‘charge Pipe’ from within these pages. However, I can give you clues as to which way round you should wear your wetsuit and how not to get a thorough beating from the locals.
May the swell be with you.
(Percentage of proceeds to go to the forgotten victims of the Tsunami in Sri Lanka - www.paddle4relief.co.uk)