I have been writing about the history of surfing for the past 18 years. Although I self-publish, my works have also appeared in THE SURFERS' JOURNAL, LONGBOARD and SURFING, as well as other surf and non-surf publications. I basically write chronologically, writing around the quotations of the people who lived the story I'm telling.
My works are always extensively footnoted for you the reader and also for future historians. I not only draw from interviews and research I have done, but also from those of other surf writers who are kind enough to share.
When I began, there were very few of us “surf writers.” Now there are many and even surf museums scattered across the globe. As a result, new discoveries in surfing’s history are being made all the time and our knowledge and sense of place – as surfers in an historical perspective – continues to grow and deepen.
Thank you for reading my writings on surf history, much of which can be found at http://www.legendarysurfers.com ~ Aloha!